• Cellar Tanking Systems and Basement Conversions
  • Wet Rot and Specialist Dry Rot Treatments
  • High Pressure Damp Proof Course Injection
  • Same day 1 hour return Woodworm Spray Treatments
  • Wet Rot and Specialist Dry Rot Treatments
  • Condensation and Black Spot Mould Treatments
  • Cellar Tanking Systems and Basement Conversions
  • Wet Rot and Specialist Dry Rot Treatments
  • Same day 1 hour return Woodworm Spray Treatments
Customers and lenders want to know that the property is going to be a safe investment for 25 to 30 years.
Water is a controllable route cause of all of the problems. Let me tell you what the surveyor is looking for:

Examples of our work

Basement Conversions

Example 1 ~ Cannock kitchen dinner

This is a great example of a basement galley kitchen with a vaulted ceiling. The property is built on a hill and the rear of the property is at ground level allowing access and natural light via a door.

The vaulted ceiling is above ground level and has not been covered with the waterproofing system which allows the decorative bricks to be exposed.

The outside ground level in the dining area is around 1 meter up the inner wall. The waterproofing system has been installed to the ceiling height to control any incoming water. The window allows natural light to pour into the room. This flat has the benefit of a second door to the rear.

We would prefer to install our water and gas control systems to the whole of the room including the vaulted ceiling. In some cases, when the external ground levels are low enough, vaulted ceilings can be left exposed at the owners request. An exposed vaulted ceiling is a popular feature.

The water and gas vapour barrier tanking sheets are sealed around the top to prevent gas from escaping into the room. The water and heavier gases can be extracted from the sump systems under the floor.

cellar beforetanking systemcellar after plasteringdecorated cellar
Kitchen Basement Conversion

    Cannock Kitchen Basement Conversion

  1. A basement galley kitchen with a door
  2. A basement galley kitchen
  3. A basement dining room
  4. A basement dining room with natural light

"please feel free to use our pictures if they can help display what is possible."

Example 2 ~ Armitage 20mm floor tanking sheets

This is a great example of a drainage system. The floor is made of 20mm drainage sheets and the walls are 5mm drainage sheets. The sheets are double sealed with tape to make them water and gas sealed.

Under the sheets are drainage tunnels that run around the room. The water is collected in the drains which are connected to the sump and pump. The drains are the second lowest point of the system and this allows the water to fall into the drains quickly.

The solid floor is coated in a liquid sealant and the drain is sat in a gravel bed which allows the water to enter the sunken drainage tunnels. The drainage tunnels are large and this allows the water to travel quickly to the sump.

The double tape seals on the floor are 20mm above the gravel and drains and should rarely get wet.

The collection sump is the lowest point of the water drainage system and we test the ground to ensure that the falling water is collected and guided to the sump, even if that means digging the ground down to make the ground level with a slight run towards the sump.

All of the water collection and control equipment is sealed with access points for maintenance such as rodding eyes and the sump access.

corner rodding eye access seal20mm tanking system flooringcarving the cellar shape out of the limestonecellar sump and pump system to take the collected water outside
cellar tanking system

    Armitage 20mm floor and drainage system

  1. A 20mm drainage floor with a rodding eye
  2. A 20mm drainage floor over a solid floor
  3. Making the ground slant towards the sump
  4. The collection sump and pump system

"I cant believe how much this room has changed, to think it was flooded not so long ago"

Ian in Armitage.

Example 3 ~ Armitage 5mm wall tanking sheets

The 5mm blue wall tanking sheets can follow the shape of the room, making the most of the available space. The joins are double sealed to make them water, gas and vapour tight.

The water is guided down towards the drainage system on the ground. Air-flow behind the sheets keep the moisture droplets and condensation under control.

Every basement conversion is different and our systems are flexible enough to fit any room, size and shape.

This customer wanted to keep the shelves and make a seating area and a shelf for the entertainment equipment.

Just like every cellar this room was allowing water to seep through the walls.

A few months before this room was being pumped out as it had flooded due to a burst water main. All of the bricks in the room had been soaked. The room was also filling with various gases which could have been dangerous.

Now the room is a safe entertainment room for the family.

5mm tanking sheets that collect the water that comes through the wallstanking system being battened20mm floor tanking for extra drainagethe sealed 20mm floor tanking material with the sump access
basement conversions, we call this the blue phase, as the blue materials cover all of the walls

    Armitage 5mm wall tanking system

  1. The basements shape is being kept
  2. The basement walls are being sealed
  3. The individual basement floor shape
  4. The double sealed basement floor and walls

"I wouldn't go down there before,
now we could be living in our cellar soon"

Carrie in Armitage.

Example 4 ~ Armitage Basement Access and light

As you can see the access to this basement was tight at just 1 foot wide. Unfortunately we didn't fit as easily as our customer through this access.

For safety and comfort reasons this access was widened. Later a partition was built around the stairs to form a wall for the sofa to be pushed up against and a door was fitted at the top of the stairs.

In the basement there was a bricked up coal chute. The photo shows the coal chute after we had un-bricked and un-blocked the coal chute.

We added a window to gain some ventilation and natural light. Window manufacturers and insurance companies do not like having windows that open inwards that are a foot height as they can be an easy way to break into your house.

This pop window would have made an excellent fire escape. If you needed to get out, the window can be removed to allow a second way out of the room.

cellar access before, we couldn't fit through, so we had to create a real accessthe new cellar accessthis will make a great cellar windowyes, this made a great window, allowing natural light into the cellar
Another great basement conversion at Armitage

    Armitage access and light
    in a Basement Conversion


  1. A basement conversions access before
  2. A basement conversions access after
  3. A bricked up coal chute
  4. A window for light, air and emergency exit

"A massive difference, just fantastic.
I had a wish list and you guys made it happen."

Ian in Armitage.

Example 5 ~ Chorley Vaulted Ceiling

The customer wanted keep the vaulted ceiling exposed in this basement conversion. The bricks were light and they were in great condition.

As there was no damp being displayed on the bricks we allowed them to be exposed, but we sealed the tanking sheets up to the edges of the ceiling.

As a precaution we fitted extra extraction in the room to take away any moisture or gas build up from the room.

The great shape of the room was maintained and up-lights now light up the ceiling and display the room at its unique best.

The room naturally sloped to the opposite corner of the welded drain-pipe outlet. You can see the drain-pipe running across the room, under the tanking system.

The tanking sheet materials have been double heat sealed all around the room. The rear wall was triple battened to allow for services to run behind the walls.

The side walls were not straight to start off and several layers of battens, plasterboards, bonding and plastering were used to straighten the side walls.

the blue tanking materials being fitted to the walls.blue 5mm tanking system being fitted to the stairsour 5mm tanking system is fitted to the walls right up to the ground floor cellar access doorthe floor has a deep drainange system connected to the sump
a basement conversion in Chorley, near Tamworth

    Chorley Basement Conversion
    with an exposed vaulted ceiling


  1. A basement conversion with a vaulted ceiling
  2. Basement stairs with a kite corner
  3. Basement stairs with a vaulted ceiling
  4. The cellar sump and pump system

"I can really appreciate the hard work that was required to turn our cellar into a desirable living space. I had doubts and I took the time to visit you previous jobs, but now I'm really pleased, thank you. Please come back when we have decorated and take as many photos as you want"

Roy & Tracey in Chorley.

Example 6 ~ Coven Small Cellar

This is a cellar tanking system being fitted before we can complete the small basement conversion.

When we arrived the cellar was full of water. The water had to be pumped out before we could enter the room. This cellar had not flooded previously in its 50 year history.

This basement was a set of steps, a 1 meter square area at the bottom of the stairs with 2 handy storage areas to the sides.

There was a false floor which could be dropped over the stairs which allowed more storage space at the top of the stairs.

The same complex systems are fitted to BS8102:2009 standards even into the smallest of cellar waterproofing systems. The cupboard is now dry, safe and a very handy storage space.

The customer was very pleased that we could remove and re-fit his false floor.

As with every basement conversion, a separate fuse spur for the pump and cellar's electrical points are used.

a cellar tanking system being fitted to a cellar that was flooded to the top step2012, this cellar is flooded to the top step, we will have to pump the water out before we can start, this cellar has never flooded before in 100 yearsthe dry plastered cellar stairs after we have finishedthe dry storage area with coat hooks
a basement conversion in Coven

    Coven Small Basement Conversion

  1. A basement waterproofing system
  2. A completely flooded basement
  3. The useful basement storage area
  4. The cupboard under the stairs,
    with the extra storage space below.

"I will only accept the best in my house,
I had a few requests that you managed and now I'm happy that I have a secure storage area that looks as nice as the rest of the house."

Graham in Coven.

Example 7 ~ Lichfield Basement Studio

As electrical items that are sensitive to moisture were going to be used in this studio, the customer was happy to hear that we can install moisture control systems in our basement conversions as well as water control systems behind the cellar tanking system.


A humidistat extractor has been fitted to collect the moist air and keep running until the humidity falls to a set level. This will require a permanent live feed when the electrical supplies are being installed.


A ring main of electric sockets have been installed behind the plaster-boards to keep the walls flat with sunken plug sockets.


Studio equipment, record sleeves and a large comfy soft sofa are examples of what have been placed in the basement after it has been converted. Before it was converted, any paper or soft material based items would have become damp and mouldy.


As you can see, we have maintained the shape and size of the room. This room had a new floor as the original floor was just soft dirt and could not provide any support for the furniture.

the cellar before we have started, the brown phasewe have started to fit the blue tanking system, the blue phasecellar after the plast boards have been fitted, the white phasea decorated, clean and dry basement conversion to a wasted cellar space
A basement conversion in Tamworth

    Lichfield Basement Studio Conversion

  1. A basement at the brown or dirty stage
  2. A basement at the blue or tanking stage
  3. A basement at the white or plaster-board stage
  4. A completed basement studio

"Exactly as I imagined it,
what a great useful space this has become,
thanks guys"

Dan & Phillipa in Lichfield.

Example 8 ~ Lichfield Basement Office

This room had some very complex shapes. There was a vaulted hall, cellar steps with a kite corner and the main room had a vaulted ceiling.

The room was very damp with standing water on the floor. The walls were not very flat or straight and this would have been exaggerated by the plaster especially when it was painted.

The electrical systems of the house could not initially provide power for this room and improvements had to be made to the whole house with an additional fuse box being installed for the cellar.

Our flexible waterproofing sheets can keep the shape of the room whilst collecting the incoming damp.

Notice the use of natural light through the glass blocks and the installation of a radiator. All of the services such as pipes and wires were hidden behind the plasterboards. Wall lights and power points have been installed to make this office a very useful room.

This customer was very happy with his basement conversion although we had to demonstrate the sump and pump operating as it was so quiet, nobody had ever heard it working. The finished room was flat, straight, smooth, bright, light, warm and powered.

the cellar before we started with some complex shapesthe bespoke tanking system fits around any shapesthis is the cellar with the plaster boards being fitteda plastered set of cellar steps
We will fit the tanking system over these steps and then make a new stair case and plaster the walls.

    Lichfield Basement Office

  1. A basement conversion into an office
  2. This home office is ideal for this customer
  3. The unqiue shape of the room has been maintained.
  4. There is natural light and lighting,
    radiators and many plug points

"It was a damp smelly room that the dog wouldn't go into, now it's my clean, warm, fresh office that I enjoy using. Good work lads and thank you for keeping these place clean whilst you were working, it was really appreciated"

Mike & Jane in Armitage.

Example 9 ~ Bilston Wine Cellar

This was a great shaped room with a wide vaulted ceiling that curved almost from the floor to the floor the other side. There is a long hall with a vaulted ceiling leading into the main room.


As the window was small and did not provide a lot of natural light, the room felt dark, dim and uninviting to start with.

The customer has decorated the room with light colours and we strategically placed the wall lights to light up the floors and the ceiling to create the illusion of space.


3 sides of the room have bench seats wide allow many people to sit and enjoy the frequent wine tasting parties. These customers take their specially selected wines very seriously and this room was designed to keep the wine in an ideal storage, testing and tasting room.


During the plastering phase, we had introduced a lot of water into the room and extra airflow and dehumidifiers had to be installed as the room held the moisture which could promote the growth of mould and mildew.

Air flow in a cellar can be very important to remove the moist air build up and gases.

The plastered cellar access hall and stairsA plastered window which provides natural light during the dayA happy customer with his new wine cellarThe external view of the cellar window
A new wine cellar, a present from the wife.

    Bilston Wine Cellar

  1. This is a wine cellar basement conversion
  2. Notice the wall lights
  3. Humidity control was important in here
  4. Natural light is provided by a small window
    which is covered by a grate that can
    be removed from below if you
    needed to get out through the window.

"This was a great project and I'm really happy we decided to do it. It is going to be used frequently!, thank you"

(Doctors) Zain and Lynda in Bilston.

Example 10 ~ West Bromwich Basement Storage

This large room was used as a storage facility for the flats above. Noting would last as the room was very damp being below the ground level.

The basement was to be converted into a large store room.
All of our residential basement conversions are built to a high specification and the room could be used a cohabitation, entertainment, office or living area, not just a store room.

This is a further example of a Type C waterproofing system being applied from the inside only. This system is designed to collect the water and control it using high density sheeted materials and a drainage system to collect the water and a sump and pump system to remove the water. Access points for future maintenance are installed.


Dry rot was discovered in the walls and the wooden stairs. This had to be treated before the tanking system was sealed up. A neighbouring cellar had been filled with dirt and was holding water. This is the ideal condition required for dry rot which is access to a constant source of water.


The contaminated walls were treated with a boron based solution to prevent the dry rot from spreading.

A large cellar being covered in the 5mm tanking materiala tanking system being fitted to a large cellarthe cellar tanking system is being fitted around the shape of the room to make the most of the available spacethe rotten wood needed to be removed first
a basement convsion in progress

    West Bromwich Basement Storage

  1. A large basement storage area
  2. Blue tanking materials gather the water
  3. The basement shelves are kept for storage
  4. Problems like dry rot need to be treated first.
    Air flow prevents further water and gas build up.

"Thank you for turning this black hole into a light and clean storage room. It looks good enough to be a self-contained flat."

Richy in West Bromwich.

Example 11 ~ Industrial Bund and Tanking Systems

Bund or tanking systems are where a provision for an oil leak is made as in this example. A collection point is made such as this concrete wall and floor around the oil tank. This is designed to stop the oil from leaking into the ground, water table, nearby rivers or the drains. Businesses cannot allow any contamination or pollution.


The porous brick, concrete and mortar is treated with external flood defence liquid treatments which sink into the porous materials and form a liquid control barrier.


These barriers slow the liquid down significantly and allow a chance to remove the spills or leaks before an environmental fault or event happens.


Liquid barriers can age in the heat and weather and cracks can develop, especially in sharp corners or edges.


Notice the corners are filleted and not left as sharp right angles. The protective liquid coating could crack in the corners and ideally a soft rounded edge should be formed. If the liquid barrier cracks, then the oil in this case could contaminate the concrete wall or the contamination could leak.


Project site teams may require temporary industrial bund or tanking systems to be formed for a short term projects for example. Treatments and barriers can be created to suite the specific conditions.


To protect the unique assets of the company, a deep concrete pit was protected from salt and other chemical contamination. Once salt penetrates into the concrete, this unique concrete asset may be permanently damaged.

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years


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a bunding system for a large liquid tankwaterproofing a concrete pit to prevent this assess from being damaged by oila deep clean concrete pit being protected from salts and oilsA strategic asess being protected from salt and oil contamination
industrial tanking and bunding systems

    Bund and Industrial Tanking

  1. An oil tank with a concrete wall and floor
  2. A deep concrete pit used for chemical cleaning
  3. The concrete walls would soak up salts
  4. A unique company asset being protected

"Thank you for your advise and thank you for arranging your technical support from London to visit us here in the Midlands."

Paul, Site Manager, Energy Industry.

BS8102:2009 Basement Conversions
including Type C Cellar Control Systems

By far the most complicated protection against damp is a cellar tanking system. Any bricks below the damp course which is set at the ground floor level must be considered to be damp.

This is what a cellar can look like, damp, smelly, musty, areas of mould growing on the walls and in some cases ponding or pooling of water on the floors.

As all of the bricks in a cellar are below ground floor level they would all need treating. To prevent to build up of water pressure behind a wall, the water is allowed through, but is caught behind a thick plastic sheet and is guided into a sump to be pumped away.

There are 4 stages to a cellar tanking system

 

1 The cellar 'Brown' or 'Dirty' phase.
This is how a cellar looks when we arrive, usually damp and possibly mouldy with a musty smell being given off by the damp bricks and the damp wood.

2 The cellar 'Blue' phase
The cellar walls, floor and vaulted ceiling is covered with a blue plastic sheeting called P5 which is made by Isola Platon. This is held onto the cellar wall, floors and vaulted ceilings by large brick plugs with a blue seal. Battens are fixed to these black plug heads.

3 The cellar 'White' phase
Plasterboards and floorboards are fixed to the battens which turn the cellar a clean white colour. Services are hidden behind these boards and room looks clean and straight for the first time.

 

4 The cellar 'Pink' phase
The cellar is plastered to a skim finish and skirting can be fitted if required.


The whole cellar is cleaned and coated in a strong thick blue plastic sheeting made by Isola Platon. The cut edges need to be connected using a special dark blue tape or rope which seals the sheets together.

Special sealed plugs are used to hold the Platon to the cellar walls which allow battens to be attached to them. The plasterboards are then screwed to the battens. Notice that the blue sealing rope seals the hole that is made for the black plug.

Air flow can be linked behind the blue Platon sheeting and into the cellar to remove the build up of any condensation.

A staircase is added later over the sealed stairs. Thicker tape is used over the Platon tape or rope seals in key joints, such as the joints from the cellar floor to the cellar walls, the vaulted ceilings to the cellar walls, external services such as gas and water pipes and every step where wooden steps or flooring may rub against the plastic and damage it.

These photo's demonstrate the difficult vaulted ceilings that some cellars have. One coat or bonding is used to shape the ceiling before the plastering can take place.

As there is a space between the waterproof system and the plaster which forms an insulation from the cold walls making the room feel warmer.

New cellar plug points can be set into this void and you may also notice an internet cable wire on the left wall. The customers did not know that we were building them some cupboards to hide the old gas and electric supplies, this was carried out free of charge.

The photo’s show a number of key features of a basement conversion:

  1. the plastered vaulted cellar ceiling
  2. the electricity supply from the left cupboard
  3. the gas supply from the right cupboard
  4. the air supply to the cellar from outside
  5. one of the new plugs points
  6. the large shelf
  7. the skirting board
  8. and the floor access to the sump pump

Underneath all of this plaster is a waterproofing system collecting any water and guiding it to the underground sump pump which can pump it out from the cellar to the outside automatically.

The cellar staircase has been built over the blue Platon waterproofing because underneath there were wet bricks. Now the damp is being guided into the sump pump, but all you can see now is a new stair case, plastered walls and a plastered ceiling right up to the entry door to the cellar.

Some of our photos were taken the day after the plastering of the basement was completed. The cellar vaulted ceiling has many layers of bonding under the plaster and both will take several days to dry.

Extensions are being used in this case as the electricians certificate will be the last test before completion. A new modern consumer unit was added as there were 2 new fuses required for the pump and the cellar plug points.

The customer is now using the converted basement as a study and play area. Warm, dry and peaceful, the new cellar has added another dimension to the house.

Other customers have used their basement conversions for

  1. wine cellars
  2. an office where privacy and quiet was paramount
  3. a solicitors for business document storage
  4. gym rooms
  5. a display area for collectables
  6. an apartment to rent out in the city centre
  7. a home cinema
  8. a kitchen dinning room and
  9. some just wanted an extra sitting room

Natural light can guided into the basement by added using sun tubes if the outside can't be seen from a coal chute for example. These are tubes of reflective material which direct any light from the outside onto a receiving dish on the cellar ceiling or walls.

Whether you have some specific use in mind or you just want to stop the smells from the cellar invading your house, an Aquarius Timber basement conversion using Isola Platon systems will give you peace of mind.

If you need a 10 year company guarantee or a 10 year product guarantee from Triton Chemicals our Isola Platon supplier or a 10 year workmanship guarantee for the tanking system that is Insurance backed from the TUG insurance, as Triton Approved Contractors we have it covered.

Can a damp cellar be turned into a room that can be used?

The dirt below the outside ground level is going to be wet. Bricks, mortar, cement based products such as normal concrete will not hold this water back for long. These cellar floor and wall problems are very common as the bricks and mortar will allow the dirty water to pass into the cellar creating damp areas, raising the moisture levels and allowing dry rots or wet rots to flourish.

If there is a wooden floor above, this can soon be attacked by infestations such as woodworm, dry rot or wet rots. We see so many dangerous floors that are rotten and laid across a deep cellar. The first signs of a problem could be the smell coming from the cellar and your rotting timber floor.

We recommend that ventilation is used rather than covering the cellar ceiling as rots prefer the damp voids that are created by burying timbers behind plaster boards. We would ensure that there is a good flow of air to the joists between the cellar ceiling and the floorboards above using air bricks before we fit a plasterboard cellar ceiling.

We could have had so much work over the last 10 years if we could find a cheaper method of curing damp in a cellar.

The following products or techniques will not work below ground level:

  • cellar sprays
  • pastes
  • tar on the cellar walls and floor
  • waterproof paints on the cellar floor
  • spray sealant on the cellar wallks and floor
  • epoxy resins on the cellar floors and steps
  • waterproof render on the cellar walls
  • any plaster products no mater how thick in the cellar
  • dpm or a sealed plastic shell without a cellar sump pump

The only effective cure for damp below ground level including cellars, basements, uneven ground, houses built into the side of hill or a buried damp course is a tanking system with a sump pump.

A cellar water control system can last 30 years if:

  • the correct standard materials have been used
  • each plug and sheet join has been correctly sealed
  • the sheets have not punctured during fitting
  • it is connected to a working sump pump
  • the voids are properly ventilated
  • the room is properly ventillated
  • all of the cellar cables having been protected
  • its been fitted by trained cellar tanking engineers
  • using qualified plumbers and electricians
  • using skilled carpenters and plasterers
  • and the cellar pump is serviced every year by qualified cellar tanking engineer

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years


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cellar beforetanking systemcellar after plasteringdecorated cellar
A nurses basement conversion

    Stourbridge cellar in progress

  1. The cellar before
  2. The cellar during the work
  3. The cellar after plastering
  4. The cellar after decoration

"I love my basement conversion. It allows me to work and look after my little one at the same time as it is such a safe environment."

Jayne in Stourbridge

the cellar steps beforecellar steps with a tanking systemcellar steps after plasteringa set of cellar steps after they have been decorated
A set of cellar steps being tanked

    A cellar in progress

  1. The cellar stairs before
  2. The cellar stairs during the work
  3. The cellar stairs after plastering
  4. The cellar stairs after decoration
vaulted ceilingcellar stairssump pumpdrainage from sump pump
A basement convsion with complex additions

    A cellar in progress

  1. A plastered vaulted cellar ceiling
  2. A plastered cellar stair case we had built
  3. The cellar pump in the sump chamber
  4. The exit pipe from the cellar sump pump
a cellat tanking system work in progresscellar plugs and cable linefinished staircasesealed sump pump
A cellar with a tanking system being completed ready for the basement conversion into a useable room

    A cellar in progress

  1. A cellar tanking system blue phase
  2. Cellar electric and internet cable wires
  3. A new cellar stair case completed
  4. The cellar sump pump service access
sun tunnel to light up dark corners

  • A natural light tunnel in a dark corner of the cellar
vaulted ceilingcellar services being hidden in the wallsthe sump pump access cover. the sump is serviced by removing this lidsome great natural light being gained by diffused glass
a home office basement conversion in progress

    A cellar in progress

  1. Complex vaulted ceilings in tanking material
  2. Cellar services, pipes and wires are all hidden
  3. The sump access hatch sealed to the tanking
  4. An external light source sealed to the tanking
vaulted ceilingcellar stairsnew electrical systemsheating, lighting and power in the cellar
a damp basement before we fit the cellar tanking system materials

    A cellar in progress

  1. A reminder of how a cellar can look
    notice the black mould and
    the tide mark.
    What you cant sense is the smell
  2. A new consumer unit with 3 fuses for safety
    1 for the cellar sump pump
    1 for the 4 new cellar lights and
    1 for the 4 cellar double sockets
  3. A fuse spur being installed for the cellar pump
  4. Notice the cellar sump back up alarm on the wall,
    the fitted radiator with flexi hoses,
    the plastering and skirting,
    the cellar sump and pump access and
    the sockets and wall light wire.

Combined Damp & Timber Project
in Birmingham

This was a large school, library and swimming baths that were being renovated and converted into the Green Lane Community Centre.

The building was over 30 years old and the damp course needed to be renewed. High pressure damp course injection was used. This takes more time and is much harder than the damp proof gel method but we can see if the treatment has worked and the damp proof protection can start to work instantly.

Soluble ground salts rise up the bricks with the water to around a meter above the solid ground level using a combination of capillary action and a form of electrical attraction. These salts react with the gypsum based plaster products causing them to corrode. The moisture held in the plaster also attracts moulds and rots to grow.

Salt had started to rise on the inner walls which alerted the project manager that there was a damp problem. We treated the walls with a thick two part render mix with a built in salt inhibitor. The treated render allows the moisture through and walls to dry but holds the soluble ground salts in the render and away from the surface plaster.

Some of the timbers needed replacing and all of the timbers needed treating for infestations such as woodworm and wet rot.

These chemical treatments should be carried out by a specialist damp company who are Approved Contractors with access to the correct chemical treatments and with the specialist training to use them effectively. Approved Contractors can then issue 30 year insurance backed guarantees if required.

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

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a large damp building has a new damp proof course installedthe roof timbers needed a combined woodwork and rot treatment. some of these large beams needed to be replacedthe complex wall shapes are having a new damp course installedthe high pressure damp course injection to the outer wall
a large building in Birmingham with some damp issues

    Combined Damp & Timber Projects

  1. A large project with damp & timber issues
  2. Large timber parts with partial infestations
  3. Soluble ground salt contamination
  4. High pressure damp course injection

"I'm looking forward to working with you again in the near future."

Kasar in Birmingham

Damp Proof Courses

We drill a series of holes, 2 per brick, at the internal floor level, which should be just above the old damp course. Then we inject the damp course fluid under high pressure into these holes. The whole brick then becomes a damp proof course replacing the old 1~3mm layer.

All walls, internal and external are buried in the ground and therefore all walls are in contact with wet soil at the base of the wall. If you place tissue in a cup of water, the water rises up the dry tissue very quickly, the same happens with the walls dipped in the wet soil, but it takes a while longer for the damp to climb through the bricks and mortar.

The system used to stop the damp rising up the walls is a damp course layer set at the internal floor level. Old damp courses like slate can leak as they are installed in small peices and not as a continuous line. Bitumen damp courses are laid in a continuous line, but they can be fitted incorrectly and they can break down after 20~30 years.

All damp courses can be by-passed. Damp can rise through the mortar and if the mortar links the bricks below the damp course to the bricks above the damp course, then the damp course can be breached. Look for mortar being placed over the damp proof material on the outside of your house. This is usually done by poorly trained builders. What you want to see is black damp proof material sticking out between the bricks and not just a thick band of porous sandy mortar linking the damp bricks to the dry bricks.

The dirt contains soluble salts and the sand and bricks are made of materials that include soluble salts. When damp rises, it carries soluble salts through the bricks, through the mortar, over the damp course if it is mortared over and into the plaster.

 

When the water evaporates it can leave a salt tide mark on the wall, known as efflorescence. You may have noticed this on garden walls where there is no damp course.

The salt reacts with the plaster products causing them to swell and crumble and eventually falling off the walls. Any new plaster applied to a salt contaminated wall will suffer the same fate.

 

Only a 2 part treatment will cure this damage, 1st a damp course, 2nd the contaminated walls must be rendered with waterproof materials. A decorative layer of plaster can be added when the render is dry.

Damp will soak into timber products and allow the wood to become mouldy or infested or both. A noticeable smell can be noticed with timber when it becomes damp and infected. A wood treatment will save and strengthen the timbers

The liquid method uses an injection pump at high pressure to soak the solid bricks from the inside with a chemical called Triject, that will not allow damp to rise through the brick for 30 years, guaranteed. The holes are topped up later with more damp proof liquid and sealed with plugs.

Others methods include the use of a gel paste called Tri-gel seen below. The gel is applied to the mortar. The gel is pumped into the holes using a hand pump. The chemicals will penetrate the mortar and brick surface providing a barrier to stop damp from rising.

 

A drainage system may be required for differing ground levels where the damp couse layer is now below ground level.

Common problems that are caused by builders are

  1. raising the ground level with paths or paving, which in effect causes your house to sink lower towards the ground

  2. linking the bricks below the damp course to the bricks above the damp course allowing damp to rise past the damp course

  3. and mortaring over the damp course linking the unprotected bricks above the damp course to the damp bricks below.

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

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damp couse layer being re-instatedgel method into the mortarcontaminated plaster removed from the wallsexternal protection with tough silicon based sprays
high pressure and gel damp proof course injection methods

    Damp Course Injection

  1. Damp course using high pressure injection
  2. Damp course using a gel injection
  3. Damp walls with the plaster hacked off
  4. Damp walls that have been sprayed with silicon
damp course injectionhow damp gets through wallspenetrating damp affecting the inner wallfilled cavity linking the wet outer wall to the dry inner wall
High pressure damp proof injection

    Damp Course injection and
    Cavity wall problems


  1. Damp course injection
  2. Penetrating damp
  3. Mortar blobs in the cavity
  4. Cavity wall insulation problems
an external drainage system was installed where the ground level was too highground level was too high, so a trench was dug with a drainage system, a new damp course was drilled at the correct levelbuilders have linked past the damp coursebuilders have built an extension linking past the damp course
damp proofing outbuildings

    External damp course problems

  1. Uneven ground is corrected with a drain
  2. 6 inch, 150mm or 2 brick splash height
  3. Builders have bridged the damp course
  4. New extension witha bridged damp course

Woodworm Treatments

Woodworm treatments are carried out using a high pressure spray that soaks into the wood. This protection is guaranteed for 30 years.

 

During the woodworm treatment, specialist protective clothing must be worn. It is not advisable that any children or pets are present on the day of the treatment. The spray is designed to harn insects, so any pet insects should not be present either.

 

This is a 1 hour return chemical called tritech. That means that after the treatment, the occupants can start using their house again after 1 hour if the correct ventilation is available. There will be a smell not unlike washing up liquid for a few hours after the woodworm treatment.

 

The spray is designed to break the lifecycle of the whole nest. Any woodworm will be killed on contact by the spray. Any insects inside the wood will be killed on contact with the treated wood as they eat their way out or use any treated flight holes.

 

As the woodworm flight holes will be on the dark side of the wood, such as the underside of the floorboards, it is very important that the treatment is carried out by professionals who will systematically treat all of the high risk timbers.

 

Floorboards, supporting floor joists, noggins, skirting, architraves, rafters, eves any wood inside the house must be treated as woodworm can travel to fresh sites in search of food. Even under the staircase which may be covered, the underside of every floorboard in the house, every side and every angle, must be treated by a competent technician.

 

The insulation in the attic must be removed, the wood treated with a woodworm spray and the insulation put back. If the rafters are dusty, they must be cleaned first or the spray will just settle in the dust and could miss the wood and the woodworm will survive. As you can imagine, a house treatment can take all day, but it will then last for 30 years.

 

As with all Triton Chemicals, a 30-year guarantee is available if the woodworm treatment is carried out by trained and approved contractors.

 

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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wood with woodworm holeswood with woodworm holeswoodwormwoodworm by a flight hole
Woodworm treatments with 30 year insurance backed guarantees

    Woodworm

  1. Woodworm flight holes
  2. Woodworm flight holes revealed
  3. Woodworm diagram
  4. Woodworm photo
wood preservation by spraying an anti rot and anti infestation fluid
    Woodworm Spray

  • A woodworm spray treatment

Wet and Dry Rots & Mould Treatments

 

For any fungal growth to occur, there has to be Oxygen which is in the air, Food which is the wood in this case and Water, which comes into home in 1 of 4 ways,

 

  1. Rising damp,
  2. Penetrating damp,
  3. Faults; missing roof tiles, leaking pipes etc.. or
  4. Condensation.

We can't remove the air or replace the timbers, so we need to remove the water to permanently remove the problem which is why damp specialists are used to cure wet rots, dry rots and moulds.

 

The dry rot, wet rot or mould can be removed and the infected area can be treated using our specialist methods. But the water source must be detected and removed first.

 

Dry rots can be the hardest to treat as they penetrate through walls and deep into materials. The source of the infestation must be found. A surface spray of the visibly infected areas alone will not remove the infestation. Specialist treatments must be used by a professional contractor.

 

A level 1 treatment would be to prevent wet rot forming

 

  • promote air flow to reduce the moisture content of timbers
  • repair any leaks or penetrating damp
  • damp course any damp bricks that are in contact with timbers
  • use a combined woodworm and rot surface spray


A level 1 treatment may cost a few hundred pounds
and is will not cover a level 2 or 3 contamination.

A level 2 treatment would be to treat wet rot

  • all of the level 1 treatments plus
  • remove infected timbers and replace with treated wood
  • use a penetrating wood paste to 1 meter beyond an infection
  • use damp proof materials between the wood and bricks
  • manage to ongoing situation with regular surveys


A level 2 treatment way cost around £1,000 including carpentry
and is will not cover a level 3 contamination.

A level 3 treatment would be used for a dry rot infestation

  • all of the level 2 treatments plus
  • replace all of the floor timbers in an infected room
  • insert joist hangers to break the contact with wet bricks
  • use a dry rot pellet treatment in all timbers
  • use resin replacement partially decayed large timbers
  • use a rot irrigation in the infected rooms walls and floors


A level 3 treatment is likely to cost £3,000 plus
and would qualify for an insurance backed 30-year gaurantee.

Dry rot can spread very quickly, so if the treatment is started sooner rather than later, the price is likely to be lower.

As approved contractors we can offer the highest standards of treatment and provide you the peace of mind of a 30 year insurance backed guarantee.

 

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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cuboid wood, that has been attacked by a wet rotrafters which must be cleaned and then treated on all sides and all anglesrots can spread accross walls in search of foodtreatment by a Triton specialist
wet and dry rot treatments with 30 year insurance backed guarantees available

    Timber problems and a spray treatment

  1. Cuboiding caused by dry rot
  2. Every side of the wood needs to be treated
  3. Rots can cross walls in search of wood
  4. A woodworm spray in an attick
skirting showing signs of damagedry rot is eating the skirting from the backthis 12 inch by 2 inch joist is being eaten from the insidethis 12 inch by 2 inch joist which is support an office floor has been severely decayed
dry rot in an office block

    Dry rot damage can be severe and dangerous

  1. Slight damage showing on the front
  2. Dry rot is eating the skirting from the back
  3. Rot is eating a large joist from the inside
  4. A thick 12 inch joist has been severely damaged
rot spreading through timbers such as skirting, architrive, doors, floorboards or joistsrot spreading in sheets accross the bricksrot feasting on damp woodthe cause of the build up of moisture, a blocked air brick
dry rot spreading through  wooden hall and stair case

    Timber problems and a spray treatment

  1. Rot spreading in strands behind any timbers,
    skirting, doors, stairs, joists, floorboards, etc..
  2. Rot spreading in sheets accross walls
  3. Rot feasting on a damp timber joist
  4. One of the causes of the moisture build up,
    blocked air bricks

Condensation Control

 

Ventilators and de-humidifiers

 

  • Heat Recovery Vent ~ Kitchen, Bathroom, Utility,
    Conservatory any damp rooms. Recovers 86% of the
    heat at full boost, pull cord for manual override,
    humidity and night sensors, a clever piece of kit.
    Approx £647 fitted.

  • Heat Recovery Vent ~ For flats or bungalows, requires ducting. Recovers 65% of the heat at full boost, a variety of auto and manual control options, a very clever piece of kit.
    Approx £977 fitted. (incl. estimated ducting distance)

  • Positive Pressure Unit ~ For flats on upper floors.
    Pushes out clean filtered dry air at 44 slow to 55 fast
    litres per second at 20dBA. Costs 21 pence per week
    to run if electricity is 12p per KwH. Inlet from outside.
    Approx £977 fitted.

  • Positive Pressure Unit ~ For a house and is attic mounted.
    Pushes out clean filtered dry air at 44 slow to 55 fast
    litres per second at 25dBA. Costs 21 pence per week
    to run if electricity is 12p per KwH. Inlet from hall ceiling.
    Approx £897 fitted.

Removing condensation from your house,

The 4 main causes of condensation are

 

  • 1 cooking,
  • 2 baths or showers,
  • 3 washing and drying clothes and
  • 4 breathing or too many people for the space available.

 

The temperature decides how much water is carried and how far it can travel.

 

How it works in a car;

 

In a car, condensation forms on the coldest surfaces, usually the windows. This standing water can be turned back into a vapour by putting the heaters on and raising the temperature. You will use a fan on a high speed setting to force colder dry air in from outside to replace the warmer damp air inside the car.

 

So the dryer air from outside the car is exchanged for the damper air inside the car with the hot air acting as the transport system to turn the water into a vapour and carry that water around the car and eventually outside.

 

How to remove condensation from your home;

 

This is very similar to your home. You do not have a fan that will replace the damp air in your home several times a minute as you do in a car, so you need to work smarter.

 

A large extractor must be fitted in the kitchen, to remove the water vapour from cooking. This will only work if you close the kitchen door whilst you are cooking and give the fan a chance to work.

 

A small moisture sensor extractor must be fitted in the bathroom, to remove the water vapour from showers or baths. This will turn its self off when the moisture level drops to normal. This will only work if you close the bathroom door during a bath or shower and give the fan a chance to work.

 

A ceiling mounted de-humidifier can be fitted to collect the vapours floating around the house, but these are expensive, a smaller cheaper mobile de humidifier can help by placing it in the hall or in the path of the water vapour travelling around you home.

 

Clothes drying must be done outside or in a dryer with an external exhaust or a condenser dryer. The water collector in the condenser dryer must be emptied regularly.

 

If there are a lot of people in living in a small house, extra ventilation will be required. Cold surfaces are probably the most difficult to cure. Even if you have new double glazing, 60mm thermal dry lined walls or cavity wall insulation, if you create more water than your house can suspend in the air, it will turn back into water on the next coolest surface.

 

We recommend that you reduce the water creation in combination with control measures at the source of the water creation first as this is a far cheaper and usually free method of treatment that you can do yourself.

 

The temperature should be kept below 23 degrees centigrade to reduce the water held in the air and reduce the distance that the water travels, so buy a thermometer and hang it in the hall.

Open windows, trickle vents and air bricks in the summer when the air outside is less damp than the air in your house.

 

Even in the winter the air outside will be less damp than the air in your home, but YOU will make the choice to stay warm and keep the windows shut, trapping the warm damp air inside.

25 Ways to reduce condensation in your home, mostly for FREE

 

  1. fit a large extractor fan over the cooker in the kitchen
  2. fit a cooker hood over the cooker to catch more of the steam
  3. fit a small extractor fan by the shower in the bathroom
  4. keep the bathroom door shut when the room is filled with steam
  5. open the windows to remove large amounts of steam
  6. don't push the steam into the rest of the house
  7. use a condenser dryer to dry your clothes
  8. empty your condenser dryer's water collector
  9. do not use a clothes horse in the winter
  10. do not use the radiators to dry clothes in the winter
  11. don't have too many people for the space available
  12. fit 2 thermometers, 1 in your kitchen and 1 on the top landing
  13. keep the temperature below 25 degrees centigrade
  14. preferably keep the temperature below 23 degrees centigrade
  15. fit airbricks on windy walls, high enough to catch some air flow
  16. fit air bricks in bedrooms with a closing vent
  17. open the air vents so long as it is warm enough
  18. open the trickle vents on your windows
  19. open your windows on dry days
  20. close the windows on wet days
  21. the air outside will still be dryer on cold, dry days
  22. wear some clothes in stead of putting the heating up
  23. use a small £50 mobile de-humidifier in the winter
  24. empty the water collector in your de-humidifier
  25. when you batten down the hatches in the winter, think about how much water you are creating and trapping in the house, this is why the condensation and mould problems get worse in the winter.

Black Mould growth inside your home.

 

Mould needs water to grow. The water is supplied by a regular creation of condensation in your home, by you. You can control the amount of water you create from cooking, showering, bathing, drying and by controlling the temperature in your home.


How do we get rid of the condensation in your home?

 

We will carry out a free survey of the property to determine of there are any faults with the property or if it is the actions of the occupiers that are causing the condensation.

All condensation is usually caused by the members of the household and therefore this excessive water vapour can be stopped.

 

Level 1, Education

This is carried out during the survey if the customer will let us.

We will show you in your home were the condensation is created, how it travels, were it travels to and why you could get mould growth in some areas and not others. This is free of charge.

 

Level 2, Primary cleaning

We will clean the black spot mould and attempt to find the mould spores that are spread throughout your home. We will only use low level chemicals that are not harmful with a 1 hour return time after we have cleaned.

 

This costs around £300 and can be completed within 1 day. This can often be the end of the mould if the level 1 and level 2 actions are taken.

 

An option to paint the badly effected areas with a mould resistant paint such as alcoves, poorly ventilated corners and persistent external walls. £300 per day, most houses can be completed within 1 day.

 

Level 3, Ventilation and De-humidifying

We can fit passive air bricks or vents which attract the moisture out of a room whilst not allowing a draft in. These range from £100 to £200.

 

We can fit a number of Triton low carbon fans which range from £200 to £400.

 

We can fit professional level heat recovery units or positive pressure units which range from £647 to £977 with an estimated amount of ducting.


Level 4, Decontamination

This will be necessary if steps 1 to 3 have not been taken and
there has been damage to the furnishings, clothes and other fabrics.

 

We will draw a line on the garden for example and all of the contents are placed to one side of the line. The house is cleaned using stronger chemicals, the items are cleaned and can only cross the line into your house when they are dry. This may involve using a local launderette. Items that can not be cleaned are thrown away.

 

The cost of this clean is around £200 per day plus launderette costs and potentially replacement costs for the items thrown away.


Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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heated extractorsa heat recovery vent unita possitive pressure unit for an office or flat for examplea household possitive pressure unit
high performance mechanical ventilation units

    Condensation Products

  1. Heat Recovery Vent ~ Kitchen or Bathroom
  2. Heat Recovery Unit ~ Flat or Bungalow
  3. Positive Pressure Unit ~ Flats upper floors
  4. Positive Pressure Unit ~ House, Attic mounted






condensationcondensation 2condensation 3condensation 4condensation 5condensation 6condensation 7condensation 8condensation 9condensation 10condensation 11condensation 12condensation 13condensation 14condensation 15






tennants condensation rules

    This can be used by landlords and Tennants

  1. Right click and save it
  2. Print it off, sign it and date it
  3. Display it in your property
  4. Use the suggestions to reduce black spot mould
  5. Call us if the problem does not stop






mould from a cold wet floormould on a cold wet ceilingmould by a cold doormould in an un-ventilated corner
condensation in houses caused by excess water being created by the household

    Mould being supplied by condensation

  1. Mould forming by the cold door
  2. Mould forming in a cold ceiling corner
  3. Mould forming in a cold corner
  4. Mould forming in an un-ventilated corner






mould behind the plaster-boardsmould behind a shower screenmould prevention and cleaning productsmould protection
condensation mould, caused by excess water and heat in a home

    Mould being supplied by condensation

  1. Mould in a shower cubical
  2. Black spotted wallpaper mould
  3. Triton cleaning products
  4. Triton anti mould emulsion, guaranteed
    to prevent condensation mould even in
    persistant cases.

condensation

How can we protect your damp floor


Liquid based floor sealants

  1. There is a choice of ready mixed or a stronger 2 part expoxy resin
  2. This is what you would use to seal a factory floor
  3. This is what you would use to seal a damp tiled floor
  4. This is what you would use to seal a concrete floor
  5. This is what you would use before tiling with expensive tiles
  6. This is the more cost effective method in small areas

Sheet based floor sealants

  1. To seal concrete floors that are wet or could become damp
  2. This system should be linked to a ventilated skirting
  3. This will provide long term protection to any flooring
  4. This system should be used in halls, shops or any large floors
  5. This is the more cost effective method for larger areas

A new concrete floor

  1. This would be by far the most expensive method
  2. First the old floor will need to be broken and removed
  3. As you can see from the list above a new floor is hard work
  4. You should only use a company you can trust who will not puncture the damp proof membrane or dpm
  5. If the dpm is punctured, the floor will get wet again.

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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Protection from penetrating damp,
External Wall Sprays


  1. You windows, doors and timbers will need to be masked off
  2. Any dust should be brushed off, ideally jet washed the day before
  3. The surface should be dry
  4. Ideally it should not be too hot or cold when applying the sealant
  5. The preparation can take much longer that the actual spraying
  6. We spray our sealand using a high pressure spray from 25L drums
  7. 1 25L drum may cover 1 face of your house, or a small garage
  8. A 1st coat will mostly sink into the pores of the bricks or mortar
  9. A 2nd coat will add the depth for a lasting protective coating
  10. £500 would seal a small semi for 30 years, guaranteed

We have sprayed a large multi storey building on a hill in Walsall that was so exposed, the expensive lime mortar had to be replaced every 2 to 3 years. So far after our professional quality high pressure silicon spray applied using the correct methods have prevented this exposed building from any further weathering for the last 5 years so far.

 

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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laid over a drying concrete floorlaminate is protected by the platon underlayprotective paint over a wet floor and a finished hallweather proofing the exterior walls
treating damp floors

    New and damp floor sealing

  1. Can be laid over a damp or drying concrete floor
  2. Wooden tiles over a damp or drying concrete floor
  3. Damp floors can also be epoxy painted
  4. Outisde walls can be silicon spray protected



tanking materials laid over a drying concrete floorlaminate is protected by a ventilated platon underlay linked to airbrickspainting a protective paint over a wet floor and a finished hallDover Castle, weather proofing the exterior walls
covering wet floors with protective paints and tanking materials

    New and damp floor sealing

  1. Can be laid over a damp or drying concrete floor
  2. Wooden tiles over a damp or drying concrete floor
  3. Damp floors can also be epoxy painted
  4. Outisde walls can be silicon spray protected

Plastering & Rendering


We can plaster any room from a cupboard to a school hall,
arches, vaulted ceilings or plaster coving.


You should never cover up any wet walls with plaster or plasterboards.

 

You should use a tanking system below ground level like in this cellar. The plaster will never come into contact with any water in a fully tanked cellar. Any shapes can be accommodated with the flexible tanking system.


  1. Plastered vaulted cellar ceilings
  2. Plastered stair case access to the cellar
  3. Plastered cellar walls
  4. Plastered cellar walls after painting


Damp and plaster do not mix


Damp carries soluble salts which react with plaster,
causing the plaster to swell, crumble or fall off the walls.

 

Waterproof render is made from washed plastering sand,
cement and additives to prevent damp or salt from
penetrating through to the plaster.

 

The scratched surface allows the plaster to grab onto the
render coat.

  1. Rendered arch using waterproof render
  2. Plastered arch over the cured render coat
  3. Rendered wall using waterproof render
  4. Plastered wall to the full height, floor to ceiling

Damp proofing is a 2 part system,
injection and rendering.


Part 1,
The new damp proof course injection makes sure that no new
salt carrying damp rises up.

 

Part 2,
The waterproof render makes sure that the salt contaminated
bricks do not cause damage to the new plaster.

After this, when the render has cured and the plaster is dry,
you can add plaster, skirting, paint and wallpaper


  1. Waterproof render is used for the bottom 1 meter
  2. A second coat of render is applied when the first is cured
  3. This 2 part system is used on all damp walls, corner to corner
  4. The contaminated walls are sealed in used waterproof render

Work we can arrange includes:

Gas Safe plumbers,
qualified electricians and
skilled carpenters.

 

Call Aquarius free for a free survey:
0800 0730 415 or Walsall 01922 449891

serving the West Midlands for over 10 years

 

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plastering shaped ceilingsplastering under the stairsplastering vaulted roomsplastering vaulted ceilings
plastering and rendering
a rendered archthe arch plastereda wall renderedthe wall plastered
arch rendered

the damp cousre is a 2 part systemthe render goes on in 2 coats, a scratch and a top coatdamp course is a 2 part system, the damp course injection and the damp proof renderinga rendered wall next to a wall that has been hacket off
damp course is a 2 part system